faking it

ladies and gents, i am at that point in life where not only do i copy ready-made garments, but also ‘fake’ clothing patterns.

self-made dress.

i’m talking about the most famous dress pattern for the past few years, Named Clothing’s Kielo Wrap Dress. and here’s my confession: i did not buy their pattern nor did i borrow anyone’s. πŸ™ˆ

you should know by now that i am such a lazy seamstress that i couldn’t even be bothered by the thought of having to copy the pattern, and then trace it to the fabric, and so on…. instead, i just did a bit of a mathematical calculation and drew it out, took an old top pattern just for the neckline and armholes, and started cutting away! if you can’t stand copycats, piracy, and the sorts, then i suggest you skip this post. but if you’re curious, here’s my so-called technical drawing 😝:

the measurements were my own, of course, so feel free to adjust. first thing to know is at what height your waist is when you measure yourself from your shoulder, because that’s where you want the widest part of the dress to be. then you need to measure your whole waist circumference, and divide it by 2. for my measurement, i thought adding 20 cm to each side should be enough because i wanted the ‘wrap’ parts to not overlap with each other. after you got all these measurements, you’d know how much fabric you need.

in my case, i used my fabric the wrong way, using the selvedge as the hem of the dress (lazy). i used about 180 cm of my viscose fabric in total, cause i needed to make the ties on the sides. judging by the pictures of the dress in Named’s website, i estimated the ties to be about 120 cm long on each side. it worked for me, but of course as we come in different sizes, yours might be different so i suggest making longer ones first since it’s easier to cut them shorter than make them longer afterwards! my fabric’s width was about 140 cm, so this would be my dress’s length which is just perfect for me.

after you got your measurements, it’s time to find the perfect pattern for the neckline and armholes. my choice was pattern no. 127/128 from BurdaStyle magazine 02/2015. whatever your pattern choice is, remember to cut the back side of your dress 2 times (one left, one right) instead of one time on fold, because you need a slit for the back side of this dress otherwise you can’t walk. measure your own measurement from the shoulder to the waist, put a mark there and draw the diamond shape. one thing to make sure when you draw the line from the widest part of the dress to the bottom of the hem is that about 20 cm under the waistline is your hip, so you want to make sure that the dress’s width on that area fits the measurement of your own hip (i did this by measuring my hip and divide it by 4).

i made my dress’s hem to be quite narrow, 30 cm for the front side, and 15 cm for each back side. and as for the height of the back slit, you can decide it yourself, but since i like to be able to walk freely, i made mine open at 50 cm above the hemline.

then you can start cutting and sewing! i added pompoms to the armholes, just to add a little something. had to sew it by hand though cause my poor old machine just couldn’t handle it. and oh, in case you decided to use the same pattern as i did for the neckline, don’t be absent-minded like me and forget that the neckline is quite narrow. you might want to either make another slit at the back and close it with a button or…. if you’re lazy like me, just cut off an extra 3-5 cm around the neckline (which i did AFTER i sewed a bias tape onto the original neckline, and tried it on, and realized my head couldn’t even get in, duh).

and now, on to the exciting part: the result!!! 😍 oh, it was just everything i dreamed of, and even better because i cheated, LOL! πŸ˜‚Β and i understood right away why so many people love this pattern. the dress is just so very versatile, as it can be worn many ways, depending on where you do the wrap, how tight the wrap is, and where you wrap the ties. (warning: loads of pictures coming up!)

here’s the first way (including the 1st pic way up there), wrapped tightly to the front.

the second way, wrapped loosely to the front:

the third way, wrapped tightly to the back:

you see? how can one not fall in love with it? and i think i chose a pretty good fabric for it, both material and print.

this will definitely be a summer fave dress for me! ❀

whether you choose to buy the pattern or fake it like me, i really think Named Clothing did a very cool job to come up with this pattern. so thanks for inventing the pattern, ladies! 😁

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the 1000th culottes

i’m still playing the same old records. the same old tricks. the same old fave.

Zara shirt, self-made culottes, COS shoes, earrings from Indonesia Wholesaler store.

i’m talking about the fact that i am still making culottes after all these years. i can’t seem to stop myself, they’re just the easiest things to wear. ❀

this was my third encounter of the pleated kind… i mean, pleated fabric. the first one was pleated tulle so i didn’t need to think of how to finish the hem on that one, but the second one–pleated chiffon–was quite a nightmare to work with. so i thought i would never, ever, work with pleated fabrics ever again.

it all went down the drain when the ‘pleated trousers’ trend came around. as usual, at first i was not interested at all…. but as i kept seeing them over and over again, every where i looked, and then i came across a beautiful green pleated fabric…. my heart melted like warm butter. πŸ˜…

so i braved myself to do it, with the least possible work and pain & suffering. here’s the cheat sheet. (no step by step pictures cause i was in a hurry to finish these culottes, honestly, who has time to take pictures???)

the pleated fabrics are usually sold with pleats going sideways (from selvedge to selvedge), so if you want to have the pleats going vertically on your finished garment, remember to buy the fabric according to the width that you want to go for. in my case, the fabric was about 150 cm wide; since i only wanted culottes (not full-length trousers), half of the fabric’s width is enough for the length of the culottes. so all i needed to get of the fabric was the width i wanted for 1 leg. that was about 80-90 cm.

then i folded the fabric ‘sideways’ to two (selvedges together) and put a pattern of any pants i could find on top of it. i only needed the crotch yokes from this pattern, but since i wanted the culottes to be quite loose i used the crotch yokes from Burda pattern no. 7688. i put the back and front patterns side by side and cut the fabric as a whole leg piece ( = not separating the back and front anymore). this way i wouldn’t have to sew the sides and risk the pleats not being matched. cut the part where the fabric was folded, this would be the waist part of the culottes.

so i got 2 pieces now, the right leg piece and the left leg piece. the hem of the culottes is where the selvedge is, so there would be no need to think of how to finish it!

since i only had elastic band which is 5 cm wide left at home, i had to be quite creative with the waistband. you can do what you like at this point, but my idea was to make a tunnel and just put the elastic band in after everything was done. i didn’t want to make the culottes shorter by making the tunnel out of the self fabric, so i used a remnant of a jersey fabric for the lining of that tunnel.

as always when sewing pants of any kind, start with the inner seams of each leg parts, and then sew together the crotch yokes. then it was time for the tunnel and then put in the elastic bands.

self-made top and culottes, Crocs shoes.

voilÑ! you are done! 😎

New Yorker shirt, second hand vest from Pasar Senen – Jakarta, self-made culottes, Just Kulkith shoes.

rock the look with cropped top, loose shirts, singlets, or whatever else you please.

now that i’ve made these i feel like making other pleated culottes! 😁 LOL…. i can never have enough of culottes, and these pleated ones are actually quite fun and easy to make.

and btw, i sewed everything for this project only with my sewing machine. still too lazy to change my overlocker threads. ask me again next year. zzzzz. πŸ˜ͺ

meerkat manor β™₯

yep, i was a fan of that Animal Planet show many years ago. who doesn’t love meerkats, anyway??

self-made top, Marimekko x H&M shorts, New Yorker sunglasses.

that’s why when i saw this fabric, i just had to get it, no questions asked!

in case you’re wondering what table lamps and teapots doing together with meerkats, bisons, and armadillos… don’t worry, you’re not the only one! it’s an absurd print, but that’s just what i love.

the fabric is viscose crepe, and i think i got about 1,3 m of it (140 cm wide). almost all of them went to this oversized blouse. i used the same pattern as the one i used for this rainbow blouse, but due to the smaller amount of fabric i didn’t make the back side as long.

for the piping, i used leftover fabric from this cardigan project. i didn’t put any filling in it, just folded small strips of the fabric into two. it’s a little bit more successful than the rainbow blouse’s piping, but for some reason the back parts still sometimes look awkward in some positions…. so i came to the conclusion that maybe the blouse model is just not good for pipings of any kinds. 😝

other than that, this project went by without any problem. except for the fact that i couldn’t find my traced pattern for it, so i had to re-trace it from the magazine’s pattern and mistakenly traced another pattern’s back side of the blouse, AND i didn’t even realize it until i cut the fabric.

thankfully the other pattern’s back side is much wider than this one, so i just cut off the excess fabric. another good thing is that since this is viscose, it’s quite easy to pull and reshape the fabric on the neckline area (hidden under the collars) because of course when i cut the excess fabric of the back side, the other pattern’s back side’s neckline no longer aligns with this pattern’s neckline.

but i bet you can’t see it in the end result, right? (go on, examine the 3rd pic from this most bottom/last one here!) HA. i feel like a genius. 😁

so all is good! and all is summery and lovely! and off i go to have fun in the sun with my meerkats, bisons, teapots, telephones, cuckatoos, etc. life in the meerkat manor is always absurd and never boring! πŸ˜‰

not-so-cold shoulders

self-made top and culottes.

well, hello!

it’s been a while since i last posted here, and i fear this will just keep happening. πŸ˜› i hope you didn’t think i was giving you a cold shoulder. i just happen to be very busy in life, and quite frankly, i was beginning to be very uninspired in terms of sewing.

i saw lots of nice fabrics, and lots of nice clothes, but even lifting up my scissors to start cutting up a fabric felt like such a big thing to do….

things only started to change again in April, when i finally started to get enough rest, and with that came a new hope for everything: spring/summer, new inspirations, new desires to sew new things.

this fabric was (unfortunately) something new. i could practically hear it calling me, wanting to be made and worn with green colour (don’t ask me why. the stripes colours are orange and light greyish blue, LOL!). it only costed less than 4€ and i promised myself that it would be the first thing i sew again, to turn my sewing life back up. πŸ™‚

so here it is, me keeping my promise AND my year’s resolution. except for the part that i bought a new fabric. oops.i wanted to keep this simple,Β but with a small twist. the fabric is cotton jersey, 90 cm long and 160 cm wide. i used my fave pattern from Ottobre Women magazine and again modified it a little bit here and there.

the slits on the shoulders were inspired by a cupro dress i got last year from & Other Stories. i love the cold shoulder trend, but i don’t really want to get cold shoulders, if you know what i mean. πŸ˜€the keyhole detail at the back is also something i love to add into an otherwise ‘boring’ look.

i was hoping that these small details are enough to keep this top from looking like a pyjama shirt!

this top took me slightly longer to finish due to the fact that at first i couldn’t get the sleeves to stay put on the slit parts. i think i made the slits too big, and therefore the weight of the fabric itself dragged it down. after stitching up a few centimeters of the slits, it seemed to help a lot.

it was also with my own horror that i noticed when i was sewing the hem that the stripes didn’t match up! so the hem was strangely done, instead of exactly on a specific stripe it’s all wonky and off sync. but feh, whatever. you can’t see it when i wear my top underneath my culottes or shorts or pants or skirt, right???

even with the wonky hem, i really love this top! it’s exactly like how i envisioned it to be and look at the happy colours!

today happens to be May Day, so rejoice, everyone! even when it’s been raining the whole day here, i can smell spring and summer coming our way. hope it comes sooner than later! ❀

leopard under peacock skin

… or is it peacock under leopard skin? πŸ˜€

self-made skirt and necklace, tights from Pasaraya Blok M – Jakarta, Zara knit top and boots.

my first sewing project of 2018 happened in February! πŸ˜€ LOL! what an achievement.

some time in January, a friend/co-worker, J, invited us to her place to grab her fabrics for free. yes, you read me right. apparently she had too much fabrics and she just knew that she wouldn’t sew most of them ever, so she decided to give them away for free for us lucky people. ❀

i found this slightly stretch stiff satin (S4) fabric and could instantly see myself wearing it as a skirt. the colour palette is just like that of a peacock’s, yet the print is that of a leopard.

gosh, what a terrible picture… i swear the hem is straight! πŸ˜€ the knots at the front make the skirt flop down if i try to hang it on a hanger, that’s why i decided to put it flat on the floor for this pic, but the angle makes it look like the hem is asymmetrical, LOL… whatever.

anyway, the pattern and the knot technique is the same as what i used for this skirt many years ago. to my delight, my size has gone back to the way it used to be in 2010!!! woo-hoo! that means i didn’t even have to trace a new pattern!

since there was only about 1 meter of this fabric, i didn’t have enough to make the knot parts with only the scraps. thankfully i found some other old fabric scraps from my own cupboard, so i used them as a lining for the knots.

instead of making the knots exactly on the center of the front part, this time i made them a bit on the sides. only after i sewed the sides did i realize that the top knot is a little bit too high, almost covering the waistband. :p ah well. can’t be too perfect in life, right?

another change i made was the location of the zipper. the original pattern calls for a zipper on the side, but since this fabric is already a lot thicker than what i used the first time and the side is full of the knot parts, i thought it would be easier to put the zipper at the back.

and of course, instead of the invisible zipper, i used metal zipper and sewed it so that it would be exposed. i like that it adds a bit of a ‘rocker’ feeling to it, hihihi!

all in all, i think this is somewhat more successful than my first skirt, in the sense that the bottom doesn’t scrunch up weirdly. i guess it’s because this fabric is more stiff, so it holds its shape better. but i did wear that first skirt like a gazillion times, so i can’t really say that one was a failure either. :p

i already love this skirt now even though i haven’t gotten the chance to wear it outside yet (hello, -16C!! ). while waiting for that to happen, i made another accordion necklace! haha… okay, i lied, i actually made the necklace already before the skirt, but hey… don’t they go along together quite nicely?i made it using a cork fabric. yep, they sell those these days, haven’t you heard? a very thin layer of cork material pressed on top of a fabric, so you can sew it into all kinds of things. anyway, i cut the fabric to 1 cm wide strips, and put 2 strips back to back so that it won’t show the fabric side when i make the accordion shape. yes, i’m da*n proud of myself to come up with this idea, hahaha! this necklace i have used many times already; no need to wait for spring for that! πŸ˜‰

so there you go, the first 2 months of my 2018 in a very short summary! πŸ˜€ LOL. hope you’re all having a great 2018 so far as well!

swirl it, girl

it felt like it had been a while since i sewed a scuba fabric, so when i saw this swirly patterned one, i just had to get it. i bought only 50 cm (about 155 cm wide) to turn it into this top.

self-made top, Monki jeans.

when it comes to sewing, i’m sure you know perfectly well that i’m a copycat. so this one was no exception. if you google ‘R/H mickey tee’ you will see what i mean.

i just see it a LOT around the internet lately, and can you guess what else is seen a LOT lately? ruffles. ruffles here, ruffles there, everywhere a ruffle. well, i thought, why not marry them together?

i did not use any pattern, this was again a boxy shaped top with small modifications on the front part.

instead of using another fabric as the contrasting top part, i used the same fabric but the wrong side. that’s the beauty of scuba fabric, you can also use the wrong side as the right side!

for the lowest curve of the U part, i had to sew it by hand. i did try sewing it by machine like twice, but none of the results was pleasing enough. when in doubt, you should always go with bare hands, i say.

i really, REALLY love the outcome. i am so going to wear this top many times!